Locro de Papas

The recipe for this traditional South American potato stew is originally from Gourmet. It's simple, hearty, street food and takes its unique musky flavour from annatto seeds. Buy whole seeds when they're rusty red – not brown. Visit a Latin grocery store (such as Perola in Kensington Market) for annatto seeds and queso fresco (Mexican fresh cheese). Ricotta salata (a pressed, dried version of ricotta) is available from any cheesemonger.

2 tsp annatto seeds
2 tbsp canola oil
1 cup chopped white onion
3-1/2 lb (1-1/2 kg) russet potatoes (about 5), peeled, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1/2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
7 cups water
1 cup whole milk
6 oz (170 g) queso fresco or ricotta salata cheese, coarsely grated (about 1-1/4 cups)
2 firm-ripe avocados, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

In small skillet over low heat, heat annatto seeds and oil, swirling pan frequently, until bright red-orange and starting to simmer, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand 10 minutes. Pour through fine-mesh sieve into large, heavy saucepan or stockpot. Add onion and half the potatoes. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until onion is softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add cumin, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add water; bring to boil, stirring well. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, partially covered, until potatoes are very tender, about 30 minutes. With potato masher, mash potatoes into broth. Add remaining potatoes. Simmer, partially covered, until fork tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in milk and cheese; bring to simmer. Remove from heat.

Serve stew topped with avocado.

Makes about 12 cups (for 6 servings).